To even try to understand how an airplane can stay in the air 14 hours is beyond me. Yet, the 787 actually got us to Tel Aviv despite me sitting by a guy who didn’t have proper elbow etiquette and slept with an open mouth much in need of a good brushing. But, hey, I got here safe and sound and the bus ride to Bethlehem was fairly quick. Went to bed last night around 1:00 (my time) after having been travelling for 20 hours (which began at 5 p.m. back home). Actually, I can’t really make the time difference comprehensible in hindsight...let’s just say that the call to prayer from the Mosque of Omar across the street at 4:30 in the morning after going to bed at 1:00 was an invitation to acceptance. It did bring back some fun memories of travelling in India yeas ago, though!
Pulled back the heavy curtains to my room and found this lovely view (below) into the Old City of Bethlehem. In the shot below you will see St. Mary’s Syrian Church and the tiny, Da’ik St. which winds up to a market up on that hill (I managed to squeeze a walk in before we organized as a group and check out the fruit stalls and myriad other used shoe and sundries for sale...super warm people, lots of “Welcome” and some chatting with folks who asked me where I’m from).
The day began in earnest with my group by a visit to the Church of the Nativity, the oldest continual operational church that was built in 326 by Constantine. This church features a series of rounded marble steps (see below) into which you descend. The small opening expands into a candle-lit underground grotto hewn into the rock that features a 14-pointed star that people bow and kiss and photograph. Did I mention that we were in line to have this moment with the star for almost two hours? Also, I am the only non-Catholic on this trip and while the group was cued they did a Holy Rosary prayer that took about fifteen minutes. I have been carrying and reading a book about the Aramaic spirituality of Jesus by Neil Douglas-Klotz and decided to read it and pray with Klotz’s Aramaic renderings while I held the priests alb over my shoulder to help him manage all the stuff he was carrying. It was kind of a funny momemt. My group saying, “Our Father which art in Heaven”, me reading a rendering of this “O Birther! Father-Mother of the Cosmos, you create all that moves in light.” They, “Hallowed by thy name”, my version “Focus your light within us - make it useful: as the rays of a beacon show the way.” They, “Thy kingdom come”, my version, “Create your reign of unity now - through our fiery hearts and willing hands...”. And on and on...
Our path then took us to Shepard’s Field, the commemorative location of the shepards being told of the upcoming birth of Jesus, where there was a Mass in a cave (I ducked out of that one to get some fresh air and walk) and a beautiful moment of singing “Silent Night” in the Bedouin tent-shaped Church of the Angels.
Next we visted an amazing school called Holy Child of Bethlehem which features a therapeutic space of learning for kids and their families that have been traumatized through the violence that is not uncommon in their world. Amazing to hear about their method, their interfaith commitment and also to sing and play with Yuli (who had long scars on his forearms and hands about which I did not ask).
Finally, we visited Hebron and the Tomb of the Patriarchs. There is much that could be said of this town and the history of violence that has happened here with the Palestinians and Israeli settlers. It is incredible to see the amount of barricades from the Israeli border guards and the Palestinian homes that lay ruined after being seized and razed in order to make the road wider for tour buses to do exactly what I did today (ugh). Anyway, it is a VERY complicated city and charged with well-armored checkpoints and fervent worshippers bowing and singing inside this impressive 1st century Herodian complex which is supposedly built over the tomb that Abraham purchased for Sarah and was later buried there himself, along with Jacob, Leah, Isaac, and Rebekah.
Okay. I am exhausted. Tomorrow off to the world’s oldest city (guesses?) and then on to the Sea/Lake of Galilee. Good night!
No comments:
Post a Comment